Handcrafts is a branch of art that covers hobbies and activities that one produces with one's own hands. This production can be for pleasure or commercial purposes. Some handicrafts are based on centuries-old traditions.
Handcrafts have emerged depending on the natural conditions since the existence of human beings. He gave the first examples in order to meet the needs of people, to dress and to be protected. Afterwards, the handicrafts, which developed and changed according to the environmental conditions, became "traditional" by reflecting the feelings, artistic tastes and cultural characteristics of the society in which they emerged.
Kazaziye, Kazazlik or Kazaz; It is a handicraft made from 24-carat pure gold or thousand-carat pure silver wires using knitting techniques.[1] As it is used in rosaries, it is also made as a bracelet and necklace.
Filiery is an art of silver embroidery, which consists of joining thin silver wires.
The same optical effect in filigree, which consists of grains or spheres obtained from a gold or silver wire or plate with a special tool, can be obtained by knitting 2 or more wires of the same thickness. Welding of these spheres, respectively, is called granulation and was brought to the highest level by the Etruscans.
Filiery is a completely hand-made process. For this purpose, the wires are oval, round, etc. around themselves. they are wrapped by forming shapes.
This type of operation is very old and dates back to 3000 BC. It originated in the Middle East. Periodically, it has found wide application areas. It was used in Sicily and Venice during the Baroque period in the Middle Ages between the end of the 800s and the beginning of the 900s.
The art of filigree, which is especially famous in the Mardin region, is also represented by 80 to 120 workshops in Beypazarı, the district of Ankara.
Inlay work is the art of ornamentation made by carving some parts of a material such as metal, wood, ivory, tortoiseshell, marble, and cutting and burying pieces of another, usually more valuable, metal or material. The term "murassa" is used for works decorated with very precious stones.
The history of Turkish embroidery is very old. At the end of the researches XIII. It has been revealed that it was born with the Turks in the 16th century and spread to Europe from Central Asia. But today we have XV. There are no examples from before the 19th century.
The art of embroidery, like other handicrafts, was born with the desire to meet people's daily needs and to adorn clothing and items to be used. It is a branch of art developed by human beings with the idea of joining two pieces together, making even a straight stitch in a decorative sense.
Although history started with writing, it is not possible to say when and where the embroidery arose. However, the needles found in the excavations in Anatolia reveal the existence of needlework in Anatolia since the Neolithic Age.
The art of embroidery, which dates back to ancient times, is also mentioned in mythology and legends. In the legend of the Iliad, “Odeyeseus goes to the house of Lykomede in disguise and shows the embroideries in his bundle” In mythology; It is mentioned that Noema, the daughter of Prophet Noah, found the rhinestone because Moses wanted the cover of the holy ark to be embroidered.
Turkish embroidery developed according to the regions and was interested in the climatic conditions, customs and traditions of those regions. Turkish women and girls, following their traditions, felt the need to pee on their dowry, clothes and the things they would use, and they created works of art by combining colors, motifs and techniques with fine taste. They used nature and its phases for the subject and color.
The main reason for the development and spread of Turkish embroidery and giving importance to these processes was born from the custom and pleasure of gifting embroidered items to the most valuable places.
When considered within the framework of history, colors and motifs are also the spoken language of Turkish women who do not speak much as their customs.
The fact that Turkish women, who have a narrow circle, draw as if they came from their hearts, and embroider works of art with fascinating colors, gold and silver glitters are met with astonishment and admiration in Europe.
The heyday of Turkish embroidery, XVII. and XVIII. coincides with centuries. In this era, embroideries were embroidered with silks and gold and silver glitter on precious fabrics.
These embroideries, which are difficult due to the change in living conditions today, have become less embroidered and lost their old fine embroidery form. Currently, old embroidery is modernized without spoiling its color and pattern character, creating beautiful and tasteful embroidery.
Ribbon Embroidery
B.C. Silk, which started to be used in the Far East around 1200 BC, has reached the shores of the Mediterranean after many adventurous journeys. The Byzantines, who seized the secret of "silk", turned silk production into an industry.
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Needlework with silk ribbon became popular in the mid-1800s. It was first used on military uniforms and later seen on vests in civil society.
3. Napoleon's wife Princess Eugenie's clothes began to be seen in the palace with the use of ribbon embroidery. The clothes were designed by the famous House of Worth first hot couture store.
Needlework became very popular in these ages and soon after it reached England, Europe, other countries and the USA. In 1815, the first ribbon factory was opened in America.
With the development of the sewing machine, wholesale production began. With the increase in the population of the wealthy, ribbon embroidered clothes attracted a lot of attention and demand. This embroidery was also used on the umbrellas used.
Thanks to the women who changed their clothes up to five times a day in parallel with the glamorous life of the period, couture stores were working very hard and ribbon embroidery continued to become widespread.
It was also used in home decoration and accessories during the Queen Victoria period.
19th century At the end, this embroidery was used for decoration.
This decorative art made with needles, which was revived in Australia and New Zealand, is also in demand in our country today.
Ribbon Embroidery Materials
1-Needles
Needles used in ribbon embroidery have some features.
Pointed needles: They are used in flower work made by sticking and sticking out of the fabric.
Blunt-tipped needles: They are used for shallowly worked flowers made by dipping into the fabric less.quote.
Needles are different sizes. There are fine needles for light fabrics and larger needles for thick fabrics. The eyes of the needles should be large so that the ribbon can pass easily. The holes of some needles are covered with a special material and the color is yellow. This allows the fabric ribbon to pass easily.
2-Ribbons
Various ribbons are offered for sale in the market. Organza ribbon satin ribbon and silk ribbons are available in various widths colors.
Satin ribbon is not used in this embroidery. Organza ribbons are used in some special flower varieties. It is silk ribbons that best reflect the feature of ribbon embroidery. Silk ribbons are available in various colors and widths.
3-Threads – Beads
Threads and beads are used as a complement to ribbon embroidery. Various colored mulines, cotton floss and silvery threads play an important role in preparing the infrastructure in this embroidery. Beads show flowers more beautiful bright. There are many varieties in the market.
4-Fabrics
Ribbon embroidery can be easily worked on many kinds of fabrics. Cotton linen silk slub local weavings such as taffeta monorail crepe lace denim wool chiffon… Ribbon embroidery is also worked on special printed fabrics.
Ribbon embroidery, the apple of the eye of handicrafts, which has a wide range of uses from home accessories to clothing and furnishings, turns into paintings that seem to come alive if you touch them. Fragrant violets, tulips, enamels, poppies, green fields, trees, a thousand and one colorful shades of the sky, cute babies, houses, animal figures and much more.
We can say that the adventure of ribbon embroidery, which is among the most popular handicrafts of today, dates back to ancient times. Because as we know, the main material of the ribbon is; silk. Silk, on the other hand, was first used in the Far East around 1200 BC, according to our research, and was transported to the Mediterranean coast via the Silk Road. The price of silk, the secret of production of which was kept by the Far East for hundreds of years for commercial reasons, was almost equivalent to gold at that time. However, after the Romans got hold of the secret of how silk was formed through the silkworm cocoons brought by 2 Indian Monks between bamboo branches, the Byzantines started producing silk in a short time and it became an industry.
At the end of the 16th century, France, Germany, Italy and England used silk ribbons to decorate clothes. In the middle of the 17th century, ribbon became especially popular in men's clothing, and at the end of the 18th century, ribbon embroidery began to be used extensively in Europe along with lace and other handicrafts. In addition to clothing, the use of ribbon embroidery for home decoration, various accessories and other decorations has also become widespread over time. In short, we can say that ribbon embroidery, which started with the use of silk ribbon as an element of decoration in clothes, has shown a development equivalent to the spread rate of silk in the world in this sense.
Accessories such as bags, shoes, belts, wallets, glasses cases, trays, boxes, mirrors, album covers, doors
In ribbon embroidery, which has a wide range of usage areas such as wall decorations, lampshades, wedding dresses, baby dresses and evening dresses, tables, coffee tables and bedspreads, beautiful motifs are applied to the desired floor and a very rich, elegant and pleasant appearance is obtained as an ornamental element.
Ribbon embroidery, which is made by using hand embroidery, sequins, beadwork and applique techniques and attracts people's attention, is considered one of the easiest branches to learn. Due to its wide range of uses, it attracts the attention of a large audience. Sevim Su, one of the technical guides of İSMEK, summarizes her views on this subject as follows: "Ribbon embroidery, which has caused an explosion in demand in our country in recent years, has been very popular among women with its easy workability and visual appeal. Of course, the printed and visual media also had an effect on this."
We can say that this handicraft, which has shown an incredible rise in the last 3-4 years, has found its place in the hearts. In the past, embroidery ribbon, which was the main material, was imported from abroad, source books consisted of foreign publications. But now all this has become available from domestic production. Sources can also be diversified from domestic publications. My wish is that this art does not get lost among the wheels of fast consumption, which is the problem of our day and age, and that it continues this momentum in the same way.
Nature figures (flower, leaf, tree, sky, green field, sea, etc.) are mostly used in ribbon embroidery to express the vividness of colors in the most beautiful way. Among the materials, there are wooden hoops, linen-style fabric (sparsely textured), silk or synthetic ribbons, ribbon needle, silk or cotton embroidery threads, scissors, sequins, beads, carbon paper, pattern templates or digital prints. The choice of ribbon is very important. Widely used satin and nylon blend ribbons lack the softness and flexibility of silk ribbon. If organza ribbon is used in the works to be done, beautiful products can be made at very low costs.
The use of ribbon embroidery in paintings was showcased for the first time at İSMEK with the works in the Four Seasons in Ribbon Embroidery Exhibition. The exhibition was the scene of intense interest from Istanbul residents. And this appreciation was, of course, a source of enthusiasm for the performers. At İSMEK, there are fragrant violets, tulips, enamels, poppies, lush green fields, trees, a thousand and one colorful shades of the sky, cute babies, houses, animal figures and much more, in ribbon embroidery paintings that turn into panels that look as if they will come alive if touched. We have selected a few of them for you, our Handicraft Magazine readers, and we wanted to briefly explain from the materials used to the techniques and construction with the valuable contributions of technical guides Hacer Çaylı, Fadime Dursun and Sevim Su.
Techniques Used: Hand Embroidery, Ribbon Embroidery, Applique Materials: Ground fabric, applique fabric, interlining, hoop, ribbon embroidery needles, parchment paper, eraser, pencil, embroidery threads, girl figure to which applique technique can be applied, embroidery embroidery ribbons. Application: The pattern is enlarged to the desired size and drawn on parchment paper. Fabrics suitable for the figures in the picture are prepared and ironed. The interlinings are glued. The pieces are drawn separately on different fabrics and embroidered with the back needle technique. 1/2 cm. cut with a share, tacked from the back, the spacers are combined. After the prepared applique is placed on the floor, it is mounted on the fabric with intermediate pressure. The operations to be made around it are decided and the drawing is made. Flowers are placed around it with ribbon embroidery techniques. Rose Making: The middle part is made by hand curling and planted on the ground. Rose petals are made around it with a ribbon needle. 13mm ribbon is used for the big rose and 7mm/4mm ribbon is used for the small rose. Branches are processed with handle work. Leaves are made with 13mm/7mm/4mm green ribbons and decorated with seed works.
Techniques Used: Hand Embroidery (Knot Work, Rococo, Back Needlework, Herringbone, Beadwork), Ribbon Embroidery (Batmagul, Curled Roses, Shirring, Japanese Needlework, Lop, Colonial Knot, French Knot) Materials: Ground fabric, hoop, ribbon embroidery needles, parchment paper, eraser, pencil, embroidery threads, embroidery embroidery ribbons. Application: First of all, transfer printing of the pattern is done. Simple embroidery needles are embroidered. Starting from the very background, the embroidery is completed using ribbon embroidery techniques.
Techniques Used: Hand Embroidery (Knot Work, Rococo, Back Needlework, Herringbone, Beadwork), Ribbon Embroidery (Batmagul, Curled Roses, Shirring, Japanese Needlework, Lop, Colonial Knot, French Knot) Materials: Ground fabric, hoop, ribbon embroidery needles, parchment paper, eraser, pencil, embroidery threads, embroidery embroidery ribbons. Application: First of all, transfer printing of the pattern is done. simple embroidery needles
processed. Starting from the very background, the embroidery is completed using ribbon embroidery techniques.
Techniques used: Brazilian Embroidery, Simple embroidery needles, Loop Shots, Burning(leaves), Straight needle throws. Materials: Fabric, ribbon, thread, wire, transfer, (image printing), beads, wire. Application: The pattern is drawn on the fabric, the color and technique are determined. First, the ground is formed (branches, stems, etc.) The locations of large and small roses, seed work and enamel are determined.
Crafts - Kilis
The handicrafts created, developed and matured together by each society, and the "lifestyle" in this regard are called "Handcraft Culture". We understand that Kilis has a very old history in this regard from Evliya Çelebi's impressions of Kilis in the 17th century and the words "Kilis People Are Ehli Hiref" Nowadays, Kilis reveals its aesthetic handicraft values in two ways. "Handcraft", "Machine work", Handicrafts used to be made on small hand looms called "Circle Frame" or "Pulley". The pulley could be used by one person, while the frame could be used by more than one person and together. It is knitted under the names called "Lentils", "Kartopu", "Filitre", "Cemaliyan", "Spider" and enriched with threads from time to time. "Wiremaker", "Printer", edge stitcher of these embroidery. He specializes in "antiques" There were those who made the hoop work, mostly plant motifs, human figures. As a fabric, crepe demur called "Jorjet" was used. Examples of these are: "Carnation", "Lettuce", "Hook", "Star", "Babyli"... Nowadays, handicraft has given its place to "Machine work". Once upon a time, Armenians from Gaziantep were marketing their handicrafts made in Kilis to America under the name of "Antep Work". Now housewives of Kilis spend their free time. by making use of machine work; family It provides a side income to its budget.
Account job
Accounting is a national business that we will always be proud of. Calculation thread is processed on countable fabrics and by counting. It is seen that drawing and cutting openworks are included in the calculation work
Techniques applied in Account Business
a) Account business antique
b) Thin wrap
c) Don't be silent
d) Threading the needle
e) Straw needle
f) Civankasi
g) Herringbone
h) Flat calculator needle
i) Oblique calculator needle
j) Liverdeldi
Principles to be Considered When Doing Accounting Business
1-Not combing the thread
2-The pattern has a Turkish character
3-Using serial colors
4-Not pressing hot iron on silvery places
Embroidery is a very old handicraft that has as much history as humanity and started with sewing. The first examples are found in Central Asian Turks. This art of embroidery spread to the west and other countries with emigration and ambassadors. The phenomenon of ornament and ornament, beauty and beauty that continues in the traditional culture has also been a way of life that people cannot abandon throughout their entire lives. It has been observed that women play a more active role in this cultural population. As Franz Werfel wants to emphasize with the motto "There are two things a woman wants: to attract men, to catch the eye of women", she has survived to the present day by showing geographical, economic and cultural changes, based on our women's desire to look more beautiful and the idea of beautifying their environment.
In Anatolia, the proverb "The girl is in the cradle, the dowry is on the threshold" shows the importance that the Turks attach to the "Art of Embroidery". "Cross-stitch", which has a special place in our traditional culture and is still up-to-date, has always managed to stay on the agenda in terms of being easy to process, usable and durable, as well as being the most preferred of the embroidery varieties. A large part of the dowry chests of our young girls in every period and age consists of works made of cross-stitch.
While the ladies and young girls were preparing their dowry that could meet their tastes and needs, they prepared their dowry from cross-stitch by adding their feelings and thoughts, and as a result, they produced wonderful dowries. Through motifs, communication was established between people, motifs reached from one region to another, caravans in the south, they brought news to the east, there was migration in the east, and they expressed the difficulties in daily life. What is a cross-stitch, since it is so intimate with people?..
According to C. Esad Arseven; "The process that is embroidered with needles and threads on sparse-wire cloth (cross-stitch) is nevir. According to Muzaffer Gözüzül: "It is made by calculation on cross-stitch, etamine, canvas and similar sparsely woven fabrics." Sewing cloth made with various threads using single needle or double needle technique.
r cross-stitch."
Cross-stitch XV. and XVI. It spread all over Europe in the centuries and especially interested women in England, France and Italy. In our case: In the early days, cross-stitch was known as pillow work. The fabric was not filled all over, it was used for bags, carpets, pillows, panels and rigging. In the 20th century, cross-stitch was preferred because it was made easier and using less yarn, and it is still being done.
Fabrics used when applying cross-stitch:
* Fabrics processed by counting the yarn of weaving: Panama linen, Bursa linen, Rize linen, wool interlining, silk interlining, etamine etc. creates this group. It is important for the clarity and beauty of the embroidery that the width and length yarns of the weaving are the same.
* Fabrics embroidered by basting cross-stitch on the weaving: calico, akfil, poplin, local weavings form this group. The cross-stitch cloth is sewn to the place to be embroidered. Embroidery is done, and after the process is finished, the cross-stitch cloth is removed and cleaned.
Another way of processing: It is made double by placing organza under the cross-stitch cloth. Then the surface of the fabric is completely filled with cross-stitch points.
Threads used in cross-stitch embroidery:
a. Cotton fibers: Muline, cotton (8-12 number), calico, Akfil etc. Muline is used for densely touched and thin fabrics such as cotton, poplin, opal, tericoton.
b. Silk fibers: Laundry silk, thread, corduroy (silk fabrics, grepdemor, satin) etc. It is used in fabrics such as.
c. Wool fibers: Moher, wool yarns of various thicknesses (wool interlining, wool amaroza, cachet, broadcloth) etc. It is used in fabrics such as.
D. Synthetic fibers: It is used in all countable or uncountable thick fabrics such as Orlon, nylon bobbins, etamine. Today, local weaving, calico, akfil and so on. It is noteworthy that number twelve cotton is frequently used in densely woven fabrics such as Cross-stitch generally has two types of needles.
a. Cross-stitch single needle technique
b. Cross-stitch double needle technique (İzmir needle, pistachio needle) Influenced by daily life, there is a great diversity in cross-stitch patterns that are created by combining feelings and thoughts. While herbal decorations are dominant in the embroidery, ornaments with figures and objects are also chosen as the subject. Today; It is used in more than one color as well as a single color in embroidery...
Patterns applied as a single color are also worked with tones of the same color. In patterns in which more than one color is used, complementary colors are also included around several main colors. Color harmony is taken care of by applying tones in colors. It is noteworthy that vivid and disjointed colors were used in the old processes, no toning was made in the colors, and contrast colors were generally used.
The edges of the cross-stitch embroidery, which were worked in the past, were folded on the face and press stitched on the machine, and the edges were sewn to the awning in order to enrich it after machine sewing.
The development of embroidery-machines along with the developing technology has made the edge waters made by the embroidery machine usable instead of using sewing in edge cleaning.
Our traditional handicrafts are also about to succumb to machinery and technology over time. Because industrial societies in the process of technology, "Least human labor, cheap cost, mass production and excessive earnings, etc." like supply and demand. I believe that we will be able to see today's and yesterday's "handicrafts" in museums, antiques standards or auction halls where old works are exhibited years later.
Sema ÖZ (Excerpt)
Cross Stitch:
Embroidery, which is one of the most important building blocks of Turkish cultural assets and handicrafts, belongs to the region they belong to; embody their cultural, social and economic values. Embroidery is a kind of handicraft that reflects the beauty of soul, power and talents of Turkish society at the highest level.
Cross-stitch, which has an important place in embroidery, is the most common and most common type of embroidery among folk embroidery. Technically, the cross needle, known as cross-stitch among the people, is examined under the sub-title of the group of needles carried out on the yarns of the weaving, which is made by counting the yarn, in Anatolia and Rumeli; It is applied differently from European cross-stitch embroidery in terms of color, subject and composition features. It has been shaped according to the traditions, customs, feelings and thoughts of the Turkish society and has become a property of the people by gaining a new identity in the hands of the Turkish woman, which is suitable for the characteristics of the society. It is a type of embroidery that every young girl knows how to apply and always includes in her dowry. The cross-stitch, which is applied intensively in every corner of Anatolia, has an important place in our traditional Turkish embroidery.
The technique is the same in various regions of Anatolia, but there are differences in motif, color and composition.
The cross-stitch embroideries with n were found as a result of the research studies carried out in the town of Karagın, in the Meram district of Konya.
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT CROSS STITCHING TECHNIQUE
Processing; Manual labor as a result of applying various techniques, counting or not counting, flat or fluffy, on all kinds of fabrics and leather, by hand or machine, with tools such as needle and crochet, on the ground stretched by hoop, tensioner and paper, using thread, silver thread, thread, wire. is the art of decoration created with the light of the eye.
The definition of cross-stitch has been made in various ways in the written literature. Cross-stitch is the embroidery made with colored threads with a needle on a sparse-wire cloth (canvas). “The name comes from Italian. Canavaccio or Caneveccio sparsely woven starched linen - embroidery on such a cloth - is described as "a very sparsely covered kind of tulle used in hand embroidery. In the Turkish Encyclopedia, it is defined as “a fabric woven sparsely and regularly with hard fiber woven materials such as linen, hemp, jute or thick cotton thread. This fabric is used as a backdrop in a kind of needlework called cross-stitch, as well as in head work. In cross-stitch, the loops overlap each other to form square or rectangular diagonals.”
As can be understood from these definitions, cross-stitch, sparsely woven hard fabric, in other words, is a cross work technique applied on this fabric.
Cross-stitch fabric is a sparse-looking textile product woven from hard fiber yarns such as linen, hemp and jute, with a top and bottom weaving, which is a plain weaving technique. Today, they are woven with linen yarn and subjected to starching. The double-stranded cross-stitch fabric creates sparse-looking regular squares at equal intervals in terms of warp and weft, with two rows of dense threads placed side by side.
In cross-stitch fabric, the squares can be small in some and large in others. They are called "frequent cross-stitch", "sparse cross-stitch" among the people.
The fact that the cross-stitch fabric is dense and sparse affects whether the embroidered motifs are large or small. Cross-stitch fabric is a tool used between embroidery and the main fabric.
When the cross-stitch needle technique is applied on plain-touch fabrics with uncountable yarns, the squares of the cross-stitch fabric are used to ensure that the embroidery is smooth and processed by counting.
The cross-stitch fabric, which is cut in accordance with the motif or water dimensions to be embroidered, is tacked on the main fabric. After the embroidery is finished, the cross-stitch fabric is destroyed by pulling from the width and length yarns.
The applied cross-stitch technique remains on the main fabric. The cross-stitch technique is named after the cross-stitch fabric on which it is applied.
Cross-stitch technique; It has been applied by the Turks since the 16th century, but has become widespread since the 19th century and has taken its place in Anatolian Turkish folk embroidery.
Bringing a harmonious integrity in cross-stitch products; In addition to fabric, yarn, pattern and composition features, the edge cleaning technique used is also an important element.
Edge cleaning techniques applied in different ways add value to cross-stitch embroidery in terms of aesthetics, usability and decoration. Edge cleaning technique is applied by choosing according to the embroidery technique, fabric, place to be used, fashion and person's taste. Edge decoration and cleaning of the cross-stitch products of Karadin town; It was applied by sewing the lace made like crochet, called tentene in the region, and ready-made mortars purchased from the bazaar, as well as needle lace and pico and straight stitching techniques in various shapes on the machine.
Turkish work
The motifs taken from nature are seen in Turkish embroidery. Turkish work, as the name suggests, is a type of embroidery inherited from our ancestors. In Turkish embroidery, the motifs are surrounded by curves. The thin and agile lines indicate the characteristics of Turkish motifs. The motifs in the old embroidery carried the characteristics of the people and the region where they were found. It should be noted that there is no nylon mixture in the texture of the fabrics to be used in Turkish work. Generally, linen, local fabrics, wool interlining, silk chiffon, etc. types of fabrics should be preferred.
Techniques applied in Turkish Business
a)Edge peeing
b) Flat pesent(numbered)
c) Flat pesent(numerous)
d)Shaded pesent(with edit)
e) Oblique pesent
f) Elderberry
g)Mushabak
Technical Principles to Consider in the Making of Turkish Business
1-The fabric and yarn thickness should be proportional.
2-Colors are suitable for the pattern and fabric.
3-Not combing the thread.
4-The pattern has a Turkish character.
5-The reverse and straight of the embroidery are one.
Pesen is processed in two ways, numbered and innumerable. In the numbered pesent, the periphery of the pattern is usually observed. Countless pesent patterns in Turkish work
It is worked according to the clinic or by looking around. If shading and veins are made with various colors while making pesent, it is called shaded or tahrirli pesent. Plain pesent is worked in large patterned stuffing and by drawing or counting in a size of 2.5-3 mm pleasing to the eye, in rows until the pattern is completed. On the other hand, obverse pesent is the application of straight work to the oblique.
The elderberry work is used to fill the large pattern. The pattern skipping technique, in which oblique squares are created with second rows, by drawing obliquely on the pattern at 3 mm distances, or is worked by hand. On the pattern, it is worked one square on top of two squares to the right, in the second row, in the reverse of the first row.
Mushabak work is used in large patterned stuffing. It is divided into oblique squares according to the pattern shape. A row of skip stitches is made, starting from the first row of the pattern. Go down with the second row. The first line is completed by throwing a straight line between two lines and throwing a bias. In the other rows, the first technique is continued. It is the feature of sinking the corners of the squares on the pattern. The work should be drawn as much as possible to give it a perforated appearance.
Herringbone is used in Turkish work on stem, flower circumference and leaf work in border waters. It is done without counting according to the pattern shape. In order to return the round lines properly, if necessary, it is sunk in the middle twice. The section to be made is made on one side in oblique wrapping technique. The second side is completed by wrapping it to complement each other.
Wicker needle is used in rose middles or pattern waters. The pattern is made to form squares, and the second square comes to the middle of the first square and forms a square and continues to work until the pattern is finished.
Civankaşı is the thin wrapping in a zigzag way and 2-5 rows are placed on top of each other by dipping them into the same holes. In Turkish work, suitable colors, tones of a color or glitter are used for filling in patterns or making margins.
Pattern Feature in Turkish Work
Until the adoption of Islam, human and animal shapes are seen in the patterns. After a while, it is determined that such patterns disappear with the effect of superstitions.
XVI. century geometric shapes are found. After this century, geometric shapes are rarely seen on embroideries. The feature of Turkish embroidery in composition is that there are occasional eye-relieving spaces after the filled motifs. In Arabic and Persian embroidery, the pattern completely fills the ground.
Fabric and Yarn Characteristics: Generally, linen, cotton fabrics, crepe, satin velvet were used.
Fabric Used: Needles that require counting patterns are easily embroidered on fabrics such as various linens, local weavings, georgette, grepdemor, viscose, woolen air, wool interlining.
Yarns Used: Laundry silk, muline, glitter cottons, orlon, wool and raffia.
Chinese needle
Chinese needle is a colorful embroidery that completely covers the surface of the pattern. The pattern gives the feeling of being dyed, as the colored threads merge into each other and form a flat surface.
As the name suggests, the Chinese needle was first made in China. The Chinese have embroidered on the atlas fabrics they have woven. They used nature and legends from their daily lives for the design. Another name for Chinese needle is needle dye. It can be applied on all fabrics with a tight and smooth touch. For example: Sira satin crepe satin taffeta velvet organza.
Types of Chinese Needle
1 Straight Chinese Needle: It is worked with a single color silk. Excess color is not added.
2-Shaded Chinese Needle: It is made by using many colors together. This is the original Chinese needle.
3-Fanaaai Chinese Needle: It is made by giving shade to some parts of the pattern. As a help
shank machine stitch shadow work seed work is used.
Technical Principles to Consider in Making Chinese Needle
1-Proportionality of fabric and yarn thickness
2- Needle locations are not clear
3-Combination of colors
4-Working with a thin and long needle
5-Plunge the needle horizontally
6-Always in the same direction
7-The yarn is not combed
8-Working from the narrow side of the pattern to the wide side
9-Throwing short and long yarns
10-Below and above are one
11-The thrown yarns coming together. Not overlapping or intermittent
12-The length of the yarn thrown does not exceed 05 cm
It is a technique in which various openworks are embroidered by counting the pistachio threads and cutting the width and length threads of the fabric, taking into account certain motif features, and enriching the motif edges with suspending.
In Antep work, before the openworks are made, the yarn is prevented from being thrown by wrapping the calculation work antique. According to the openwork feature, the fund can be prepared as one cut, one drop, two cut and one drop.
In the pistachio technique, the pattern is counted and passed onto the fabric. Pattern to fabric
The pass-through is very important and directly affects the quality of the embroidery. If a mistake is made while transferring the pattern to the fabric, irreparable results may occur in the cutting of the background.
Funds prepared by cutting threads;
1-Lentil openwork
2-Spider openwork
3-Snowball openwork
4-Cigerdeldi
5-Camelyan openwork
a) To my fence
b) It is made with Almond Openwork techniques.
The parts other than the openwork are decorated with various susma. Patterns are usually counted and passed onto the fabric. Antep work is used in many products such as clothing decorations, decorative products, rooms and bedding.
Wire breaking
Wire Break
Wire Breaking is one of our traditional handicrafts special to Bartın, which has been continuing from the 17th century to the present day. Its wire, which is embroidered on tulle and traditional hand-woven fabrics, is produced for Bartın and under the name "Bartın Wire". Only the embroidery needle used for this work is also handmade. Wire breaks got this name because it is processed by cutting (breaking) the wire together without any connection and without using scissors. Our main goal in the products produced by our center is to prevent the destruction and corruption of our traditional handicraft, to ensure that it is recognized with the most correct form and aesthetics, and to transfer it to the future. The only source we use in our motifs is the technique and aesthetics in the dowry chests that carry the inner worlds of our grandmothers to this day. Our duty is to renew these motifs without disturbing their characteristics.
It can be worn as a shawl on all kinds of balls and special occasions. In addition, with Wire Breaking, coffee tables and fishnet covers, cigarette cases, glasses cases, etc. can be produced. covers are being made.
Source: kultur.gov.tr
Wire Breaking (Bartın Work)
Wire breaking, which is an original and beautiful embroidery technique, is a Turkish embroidery art. The other name of the wire breaking work that has been done since the 19th century is the Bartın work. It is named with this name because the wire breaking is broken by moving it up and down with the help of the hand without using scissors during processing.
The wire used in wire breaking is made of mineral wires. It resembles tinsel in appearance and width. The wire breaking technique has a special needle. The head of this needle, which is flat and short, is wide and tapers towards the tip. It is wide enough to pass through 25-3 cm tulle holes.
After each needle point made in embroidery, the wire is broken by hand. In the wire breaking technique, the pattern is counted onto the fabric. For this reason, countable fabrics should be preferred.
In the past, wire breaking, which was mostly used in products such as sheets, pillow covers, pillows, bed skirts, bundles, bedspreads, etc., nowadays, is used in room sets, tablecloths, panels, pillowcases, lampshades, boxes, toilet sets, outerwear (blouses, pants, fanai dresses, etc.) clothing accessories (bags, belts, scarves, shawls, etc.). ) is used in products such as.
Wire breaking techniques
a) Plus points (+)
b) Multiply points (x)
Marash job
Maraş Job (Dival Job)
Since this type of embroidery is done intensively in our city of Maraş, it is called Maraş work. Dival work is also known by names such as glitter-sliding work, cardboard work printing.
Maraş work is a single-sided embroidery with a different appearance from the reverse. Pattern embroidery and embossed cardboards are an embroidery technique, the pattern of which is prepared with çiriş, the pattern is carved from cardboard with a special knife and adhered to the fabric, then stretched on the cardboard and called culde, on a special aaagah, multi-layered glitter or thread from the top and waxed thread from the bottom.
Techniques used in Maraş work
a) Wrapping
1. Flat wrap
2.Blank wrap
3.Slit wrap
4.Embossing wrap
5. Perforated wrap
b)Pesent
1. Flat pesent
2nd oblique pesent
c) Herringbone
d) Straw needle
e) Applique
f)Crown (edge work)
The areas where Maraş work is applied;
Previously, briefcases, juz bags, coffee ewer bags, trivets, slippers, shoes, bedspreads, bindallılar wedding dresses, curtains, sofa covers, etc. used in items. Today, in products such as room sets, tablecloths, panels, pillowcases, coffee tables, boxes, prayer rugs, bedspreads, album covers; in outerwear, in evening and evening dresses, in fanaaai clothes; nightgown, dressing gown etc. in underwear. ; It is used in clothing accessories such as bag scarf etol shoes slippers brooch earrings belt handkerchief shawl.
Antique
It is also used as an antique ornament, which is often used as a cleaning technique. It is a needle technique that is formed by connecting fabric threads three or four times with antique embroidery thread. It is made by pulling the threads. When the antique fabric is made transversely, the length threads are drawn when the widest threads are made longitudinally. The width of the drawn threads should not exceed 3 mm.
Types of antiques used today:
a) Plain antique (one-sided antique)
b) Mutual antique
c) Zigzag antique
d) Fanaaai antique
Pulley Work (Suzeni)
Stretch a large and large wooden hoop
The chain work technique made with crochet on the fabric is called "hoop work". Another name is Suzeni. The pulley work has been very popular due to its easy construction and flamboyant processing.
Pulley work is an Islamic-Turkish Embroidery style. It was first seen in Turkestan and Caucasus regions where Turks lived. Pulley work is applied to all densely woven fabrics and to striped and checkered domestic weavings. It is used in tableware and tea sets, various covers, room sets, clothes, dressing gowns, prayer rugs, etc. products. used.
Hoop work techniques:
1-Hoop work with needle (Loop)
2-Crafted with crochet in the hoop
3-Machine-processed pulley work
Openwork
It is a type of embroidery made by pulling or cutting thread. The openwork made by pulling the threads is called “pull openwork” and the openwork made by cutting the threads is called “cut openwork”.
Pull openwork: The threads on one side of the fabric are pulled. Undrawn yarns are shaped by grouping them together with various cottons. Pull openwork is a very elegant and decorative type of embroidery that can be used on its own or in combination with different techniques.
Cut openwork: Threads on one side of the fabric are cut in groups in accordance with the pattern. The threads on the other side are completely cut and pulled. The yarns in the middle are shaped with cotton. Meanwhile, threads suitable for the motif are thrown and wrapped.
Openworks used today:
a) Thread pull openwork
b) Intermediate openwork
c) Knotted openwork
Applique
It is to apply the motifs cut from a plain or patterned fabric or a piece on another fabric with the help of different needle techniques. It is seen that the appliqué technique, which has been made since the early ages, is still lovingly applied today. Two types of fabric are used when applying the applique technique:
1-Background fabric: It is the actual fabric that forms the basis of the embroidery.
2-Applique (Covering) fabric: It is the fabric that is attached to the background fabric with various needle techniques.
The applique technique is applied with three different methods:
1-Closed Applique (Closed applique)
2-Open applique (Flat applique)
3-Inkruste Applique (Insertion)
Needle techniques that are frequently used in attaching the applique fabric
a) Wrapping
b) Paris score
c) Fanaaai chinese pin
d) Paris points by curling
f) Blond needle
e) Cord
g) Turkish openwork
h) Rişliyo
Foreign Embroidery
1-Simple Embroidery Needles
a)Straight needles
b) Looped needles
c) Chain pins
d) Knotted needles
e) Mixed needles
2-Tapestry
a)Plain tapestry
b) Oblique tapestry
c) Cross-stitch (single needle)
d) Making the double needle of the cross-stitch
3-Tulle Work
It is done by passing or throwing the cotton thread into the holes of the tulle in accordance with the motif. Linen tulle is applied on silk tulle and nylon tulle. It is used in products such as clothing decorations, various covers, room sets. Tulle work is done with three different techniques.
White job
White Work (Wrap)
White work, which is a classic embroidery style, forms the basis of embroidery. It is a very useful processing style. Previously, it was embroidered with white thread on white fabric. Today, it is applied on colored fabrics with colored cotton. Various covers, tea-dinner sets, underwear and outerwear decorations, etc. are also used. White work can be done on all smooth fabrics. Linen poplin opel calico type cottons; They are silk like satin taffeta and Burmese.
White work techniques:
a) Thin wrap
b) Wrap filling
c)Score
d) Split filling
e)Rişliyo
f) Liverdeldi
g)Kolber
Brand
Brand (Monogram)
A brand is a shape formed by the combination of several letters. Branding is also an art of decoration. It can be applied on all smooth fabrics with a tight touch. It is used in place of signature on works of art, as a special symbol of any institution, on the goods chests, as well as on brand work and clothing items (bedding sets, chassis, handkerchief, blouse, blouse).
Brands are divided into 4 parts according to drawing techniques:
1-Straight line brands
2-Nailed brands
3-Japanese style brands
4-Fanaaai brands
English lace
English Lace (Lace Anglez)
a) English lace strip knitting (with crochet)
b) Knitting flat English lace strip
c) Knitting strips by hand
Birits
PICOS
English Lace Openwork
Makrame (Wedding Lace)
Bagumeci (Nida Bey)
Water Shrink
Turkish lace
Handcrafts have emerged depending on the natural conditions since the existence of human beings. They gave their first examples in order to meet the needs of people, to cover and protect them. Afterwards, the handicrafts, which developed and changed according to the environmental conditions, showed the feelings, artistic tastes and cultural tastes of the society in which they emerged. It has become "traditional" by reflecting its characteristics.
Cult of a nation of crafts
Therefore, co-arts products are the most vivid documents of cultural identity of that country.
For this reason, all nations give importance to handicrafts and protect them as a cultural treasure extending from the past to the future. Anatolia is an important cradle of civilization, where many handicraft products are made and introduced to the world in terms of the diversity of handicrafts and the richness of the production amount.
Turkish people reflect their taste, aesthetics, sensuality, tolerance and practicality with the handicrafts they produce. Perfect examples of traditional Turkish handicrafts combined with traditions, products from the heart of Turkish people, are documents that describe incredible beauties in art.
Needlework, which is one of the elegant examples of our handicrafts, can be described as fine lace in different sources: "Embroidery can be described as fine lace." Or yarn knitting, carved ornament", "The name of embroidery knitted in flower or leaf shapes with a needle from a colored thread", "Oya; a kind of lace. It is unique to Turkey. In contrast to the two-dimensionality of normal lace, it can also be knitted in three-dimensional form. Fabrics edge It is embroidered as an ornament.", "Needlework is an art made with the aim of embellishing and embellishing, and its technique is knitting." It is defined as.
Based on these definitions, embroidery briefly: needle, shuttle, awl, hairpin with tools such as silk cotton and so on. threads and sometimes sequins, beads etc. It is possible to define it as a handicraft made by using auxiliary materials. Lace, which is called Turkish lace, is known in Europe in the 16th century.
In 1594, it entered the French Academy Dictionary as lace and is known by this name in western languages. As a result of the emergence of these braids in Europe and the researches on their origin, some knitting names are mentioned in the Aegean tales, and from the old examples found in the Menfiz excavations in 1905, the art dates back to BC. It has been determined that it dates back to 2000 years.
In some sources, it is stated that knitting made with needles passed from Anatolia to Greece and from there to Europe via Italy in the 12th century. There has not been enough research on lace up to now. No similar knitting has been found in the sources, and the word lace is a coincidence in the languages of the eastern and western countries.
Anatolian women transform their feelings into colors and needlework. Our laces are shaped according to the tastes that vary from region to region and take original names. Although their names change from region to region, anonymous laces that circulate from city to city take a common name. Today, in Anatolia: with tools such as awl, needle, shuttle, hairpin. The applied laces, which are designed either as borders or as a motif, take different names according to the tool used and the techniques.
Our needle lace, which entered the world literature as "Turkish Lace", although it resembles lace at first glance, differs from two-dimensional lace, which forms a space and is made to be sewn on an item, with its three-dimensional structure and being an ornament in itself. usually silk.
The biggest factor in the emergence and development of needle lace is that Anatolia is on the Silk Road and silk production. There are two types of loops, square and triangle.
In the single wrapping of needle lace, which can be made in the form of single wrapping or double wrapping, a loop is formed by turning the thread from right to left on the needle dipped into the fabric first. The loops are repeated at regular intervals to complete the first row called giraffe. During the rotation, the same loop is passed through the loop directed from left to right.
The second row is made either by inserting the needle into the junction points of the loops in the first row or in the middle of the loop, and by continuing the same processes, creating motifs such as root, rock and main needlework that will form the border. . Names are given. In needle lace, a flower and a leaf are considered an example in itself. Compositions are formed by arranging them in various ways according to the place where they are used. These compositions ;
1)Ulamas
2)Yemeni Laces
3)Hotoz Embroidery
4) Crown Embroidery
5)Branch Laces
6) Pot Laces
7) We can sort them as pouch laces.
In order to keep the motifs upright, horsehair, antenna wire, fishing line are used recently, as well as starched with egg white, sugar or gelatin. Natural silk thread, cotton thread are used in needle lace, as well as sequins, beads, etc. Varieties consisting of examples made with decorative materials are also seen.
Image:Butterfly, Ankara/Nallıhan
source: kultur.gov.tr
---It is a knitting art made by tying a knot on a fabric chain or thick thread with the help of a needle.
Needle laces, which have a deep history, also have a very rich variety. The names Turkish women give to the laces they make reflect their imagination and view of daily life.
Needle lace, usually made of silk, is knitted by knotting the loops with small needles. As the knots are tightened, the knitting eyes get smaller as the knitted yarn becomes thinner. Knitting patterns in needle lace are named with the shapes they resemble. Birli, Majnun's nest, rice, Trabzon etc...
The needle lace of our traditional culture, which can be brought to the new generations from the past to the present, used for decoration and decoration, and whose technique is knitting, is a handicraft unique to Turkey.
In the art of calligraphy, just as writing turned into an ornament, this time needle lace, which is the opposite element of ornament, became the voice, language and writing of the Turkish woman.
The bride, who was condemned to speak during the times when the Turkish woman lost her position with her husband, which had a real place in the Turkish state tradition, and the young girl who had to keep silent, sent messages to the other side with the colors and patterns she used in needlework.
The letter to which he sometimes sent his reproaches became the token of his love. And it's been a day and handicraft has become the door of bread.
The characteristics of Namrun Needle Lace can be listed as follows.
1- Needle Lace as a means of communication;
Anatolian people, as a requirement of their traditional life, expressed all their lived and unexperienced feelings with great sincerity through needle laces.
It is seen that Namrun needle laces are used as a name and non-verbal means of speech.
According to a study conducted in some mountain villages of the Taurus Mountains; According to the tradition, the new bride can talk whenever she wants in her home for a certain period of time. Embroidery embroidered with various shades of green is an expression of the satisfaction of the new bride with her home and her husband, and yellow lace is an expression of unhappiness.
While the lace named Çakır Thorn conveys the message of the bride to the mother-in-law of "Don't look at me like a thorn", purple hyacinth tells the girl in love, pink hyacinth inherited daughter, white hyacinth tells about devotion.
The bride, who wears an embroidered scarf on her head, tries to explain that she is not on good terms with her husband. Highland rose is an expression of youth and beauty. Clover is used as a wish and luck. Sixty minds and seventy ideas tells that the idea is more important together with the mind.
In 85 examples found in Namrun needle laces, it has been seen that flowers, insects, geometric shapes and other things suitable for embroidery are also the subject, especially flowers are carried out in a realistic way, and other subjects are carried out with a unique and original expression. Common colors are shades of Green Yellow and Yellow.
2- Elements that are unique to needle lace and passed on from generation to generation and gradually become abstract. Needle laces testify to the era in which they lived. The lace called "Hotel Rooms" is related to the settlement in the region where the lace of the hotel tradition is produced.
3- Needlework creates a useful working environment while making use of free time.
4- The social feature of needle lace is a separate solution for education.
5- Needle votes are usually produced in bulk together. Thus, social solidarity, sharing, friendship, friendship, and helping each other gradually gain meaning. At the same time, the stories told, tales, riddles help enrich our folk literature and pass it on from generation to generation.
6- Needle lace contributes to the economy.
Despite the rapid development of technology and the constantly changing tastes, interest in handicrafts is increasing in our country and in the world. However, traditional handicrafts, which are changing rapidly in terms of content and losing their originality, need to be researched and preserved in our country, multiplied by various methods, added to our material culture and marketed with new and contemporary interpretations.
For this purpose, with a project implemented by the Ministry of Culture last year, an inventory of needle ballots, private collections in public and private institutions in museums in Turkey was drawn up, and Namrun, Mudurnu, Nallıhan were selected as the pilot regions in order of priority. The needlework artists in these regions were interviewed, original laces were purchased, those produced according to the characteristics of the region were exhibited and marketed through Dosim.
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This project, which was welcomed especially by housewives and became a source of livelihood for some sick and unable to work families, has unfortunately been abolished for a while.
The interest in needle lace, which fully reflects the superior taste, intelligence, delicacy and creativity of the Turkish people, is increasing.
I.O. It is estimated that the laces, whose samples were found in 2000, passed from Anatolia to Greece and from there to Europe via Italy in the 12th century.
Oya is a decoration. This word, which is used to adorn, has been used from the ancient Turks until today. The 11th century Turks used the word "house bezendi", "women Bezendi", that is (uragat Bezendi) (avrat bezendi).
The word Oya was pronounced as "Oyu" among the Mamluk Turks in Egypt. The Cuman Turks called the work of embroidering on fabric and stone "rubbing". Oya developed as "oyum" among Kırkız Turks.
Needle Laces, which are fighting for life today, are made in Rize, Konya, Bursa, Kastamonu, around İzmir, Balıkesir Gönen, Kütahya Gediz, Muğla, Bafra, Ordu around Bolu and Namrun.
Namrun (LAMPRON), with its new name Camliyayla; It is located at a distance of 67 km from Tarsus, between the two big branches of the Berdan River, at the foot of the Taurus Mountains, surrounded by mountains on three sides. The castle at the highest point of Namrun is 11 BC. y. done.
Namrun castle dominates the whole area in the middle of this region. In Namrun – Çamlıyayla, which became a district in 1990, the locals live on the skirts of the castle, while the urban highlanders live in the settlements on the seven hills formed around the castle during the hot summer months.
These districts are named locally such as Cuma side, Lentil, Kale front-Kale back, çvalgi, Tepensesi, Çayır ekinliği, Göbter. Needle lace is made by around three thousand local people.
Needle Laces, which fully reflect the superior taste, intelligence, delicacy and creativity of the Turkish people, have also become a symbol of beauty with the word "Like Lace".
Colorada University of America, a movie and book project promoting European Handicrafts, is planned to include only Namrun needlework.
In addition, Namrun Needle Laces were chosen as the subject of Unicef Postcards. However, this interest cannot be said to be sufficient.
In this regard, the Ministry of National Education and especially the Ministry of Culture have great responsibilities.
It is clear that there is a need for an organization to assist in research, to guide research in terms of resources, materials, financial means, examples, tools, and to ensure that our traditional handicrafts are produced and reproduced without losing their originality.
In order for needle laces to be developed without deteriorating their quality, color pattern and region characteristics, original examples found in miracles and persons should be produced, promoted and marketed without changing their character as material, motif and color.
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Shuttle lace
The materials of the shuttle laces are the same as those used in crochet lace. The threads in the shuttle are looped according to the shape of the desired motif on a certain length of thread. It is easier to make than needle lace and more difficult than crochet lace.
1)Image:Wildflower, Adana
2)Image:Layered Daisy, Ankara
Crochet lace
Although cotton yarn is mostly used in crochet lace, it is seen that synthetic yarns are preferred recently. It is knitted by chaining with awls. A loop (ring) is formed with the thread, and then the thread wrapped in the crochet hook is pulled through this loop.
The loops consisting of chains are knitted on top of each other in the form of rows to form motifs. In some examples, the spaces between and inside the loops are left empty or filled with different numbers and types of loops. Thus, different motifs are created with different jumps and holes of different sizes, as well as empty loops and filled surfaces.
1)Image:Pine Oya, Afyon
2) Picture: Wreath, Istanbul
Hairpin lace
The material of hairpin laces is usually cotton thread. However, it is seen that the last examples are made of synthetic threads. Threads are threaded into the two handles of a hairpin and tied in the middle with awl. There are also examples of these braids, which are formed according to the width of the hairpin, by inserting knurling, beads or sequins into the edges. The part to be sewn is also prepared by pulling a chain.
Cocoon lace
The materials of cocoon laces are silk with cocoon pieces. The main motifs of the lace are made with cocoons, and then they are added to the parts knitted with needle or crochet. Sometimes the cocoons used are dyed with various colors. The workmanship is as difficult and time consuming as needle lace.
Wool lace
Generalize materials With yarn, wool is often cotton thread. Like cocoon laces, a part of the lace is knitted with needle or crochet. Motifs made of wool are created by sewing on the part embroidered with needle or crochet. It is shaped by wetting.
Bead Lace
Bead laces are made by using beads from silk, cotton and synthetic threads. It is formed by passing various beads to the ends of the laces made with crochet and needle. It takes different names according to the craftsmanship and the tools they are processed.
Candle lace
It is in the same technique as cocoon and wool lace, the motifs are prepared with colored candles. They cannot be accessed because they deteriorate due to heat and excessive hand touch. The most beautiful examples are found at the beginning of brides.
Fabric waste lace
These laces, which are in the form of thin strips, get this name because they have weft and warp.
Adana and Icel bead laces
Handcrafts are one of the most important means by which Turkish people easily convey their feelings and traces of the life they live. Besides the task of transferring traditional culture to new generations, handicrafts are also the most important, lively and meaningful documents of a nation's cultural personality. In this context, handicrafts witness the era and events in which they lived and were produced. In addition to economic benefits, handicrafts create a useful environment for the evaluation of the workforce; It also contributes to social development by educating the person materially and spiritually. With some traditional handicrafts, which are generally produced in bulk, friendship, friendship, social solidarity, sharing gradually increase and gain meaning.
One of the most important examples of our traditional culture and handicrafts is needlework. It is a type of lace whose technique is knitting, which is also used as an ornament and also as a communication tool with the messages they carry.
The fact that the word lace has no equivalent in other languages may make us think that this art is unique to Turks, especially Turkish women. It is estimated to be known beyond 2000 years.
Needle knitting, XII. It spread from Anatolia to the Balkans and from there to Europe via Italy in the XI century. Embroidery is a decoration. Embroidery, which reflects the superior taste, intelligence, delicacy and creativity of the Turkish people, has also become a symbol of beauty with the word "like lace". According to the results, lace was given the most importance in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries; It is understood that they are unique in terms of technique, color, subject, material and composition, and their quality is superior.
It is possible to see the negative effects of Western imitation after the Tanzimat, in the art of needlework, as in many ornamental and embroidery arts. In particular, some of our handicrafts such as knitting, weaving, embroidery and lace have survived to the present day by passing from generation to generation in traditional ways.In addition, the tradition of embroidering and embroidering on the dowry of every young girl has been the most important factor in the survival and survival of this art. Embroidery can be divided into nine types according to the tools-equipment-materials and techniques they are embroidered:
1) Needle laces, 2) Crochet laces, 3) Shuttle laces, 4) Hairpin laces, 5) Cocoon laces, 6) Wool laces, 7) Candle laces, 8) Bead laces, 9) Weaving laces.
Bead lace is a type of lace made by using crochet and beads as the basic material, needle, hairpin shuttle and thread as auxiliary tools. Among the people, beads are called stone beads, cut, crystal beads, life and lime, pearl beads and fool's beads.
According to this research we conducted in Adana and İçel regions, bead laces made between 1940-1991; according to the vehicle used in its construction; It is classified as 1. Crochet, 2. Needle, 3. Crochet and needle, 4. Crochet and hairpin bead lace.
Knitting techniques used in bead lace,
1) Chain (thick loop), 2) Tor (sparse loop).
In the production of bead lace, there are two basic processes, preparation and knitting. In the preparation part, the beads are arranged on the thread by counting according to the subject, model and feature of the lace.
A needle is used for stringing the beads. If the bead is supplied in the form of a string in single-colored laces, it is shifted from the string thread to the needlepoint thread without using the needle.
In accordance with the example of knitted beads, the required number of threads and other simple crochet techniques are brought together to form motifs.
Mostly white, then red, blue, green, less often yellow, orange, black, brown and purple colors were detected in 86 bead lace, which is the subject of the research, which usually adorns the edges of cheesecloth. The colors are more vivid and bright. It has been observed that the themes chosen in bead lace in the region are mostly symbolic, vegetal, geometric and objective.
It is seen that the examples are arranged as intermittent repetition (single lace) and continuous repetition (water lace) on the chain made on the edge of cheesecloth. Bead laces with unique names and messages such as "Irişkinli, Girls Enthusiasm, Âşık Yolu Surprised, Namrun, Fishbone, Cilveli, Mass, Cimcime" are also remarkable with their material, technical color, and subject, composition and application areas.
It will be an important service to Turkish culture and art by researching and promoting the original examples of bead lace, which are being made in many regions of Anatolia, and by ensuring their contribution to production and economy by reproducing them without deteriorating their quality.
Clothing decorations
a) Things made with sewing technique
1.Shires
2.Pleats
3. Ribs
4.pipes
b) Those made with embroidery technique
1.What is done on the machine
2.Handmade
3. Things made with ready-made equipment
Craft-Embroidery techniques
Pattern Techniques in Hand Embroidery
Transferring the pattern to the fabric in embroidery is one of the most important factors in the beauty and quality of embroidery. It is not possible to process a pattern that is not properly passed onto the fabric.
It is possible to transfer the pattern to the fabric with the help of different techniques, taking into account the fabric type and processing technique.
Pattern passing techniques used in embroidery can be listed as follows:
1) Drawing the pattern onto the fabric
a) To draw the pattern by putting it on the fabric
b) Drawing the pattern by putting it under the fabric
2) Passing the pattern to the fabric by piercing
3) Passing the pattern onto the fabric with copy paper
4) Counting the pattern onto the fabric
5) Basting the pattern on the fabric
6) Ironing the pattern onto the fabric
7) Carving the pattern onto the fabric
Edge Cleaning Techniques
1-Corner making
2-With print stitch
3-With antique bass
4-Leaving fringe
5-Bending the fringe
6-With simple fringe
7- Making a tassel
8-Making macrame
9-Making risliyo
10-Applique
11-Needle lace up
12-Making Lace
13-Do not make hairpin lace
14-By making simple embroidery needles
15-Using ready-made tapes and mortars
16-By sewing shuttle lace
17-With machine embroidery
Fabric Stretching Techniques
1- Stretching with a jigsaw: It is preferred for embroidery pieces with large motifs or when more than one person needs to work at the same time.
2-Tensioning with Hoop: It provides a more comfortable and smooth processing opportunity in embroidery.
3- Stretching with paper: It is preferred for embroidery with small embroidery motifs and without fabric or using less fabric. (Lace Anglez etc..)
Handcraft History
The history of Turkish embroidery is very old. At the end of the researches XIII. It has been revealed that it was born with the Turks in the 16th century and spread to Europe from Central Asia. But today we have XV. There are no examples from before the 19th century.
The art of embroidery, like other handicrafts, was born with the desire to meet people's daily needs and to adorn clothing and items to be used. It is a branch of art developed by human beings with the idea of joining two pieces together, making even a straight stitch in a decorative sense.
Although history started with writing, it is not possible to say when and where the embroidery arose. However, the needles found in the excavations in Anatolia reveal the existence of needlework in Anatolia since the Neolithic Age.
The art of embroidery, which dates back to ancient times, is also mentioned in mythology and legends. In the legend of the Iliad, “Odeyeseus goes to the house of Lykomede in disguise and shows the embroideries in his bundle” In mythology; It is mentioned that Noema, the daughter of Prophet Noah, found the rhinestone because Moses wanted the cover of the holy ark to be embroidered.
Turkish embroidery developed according to the regions and was interested in the climatic conditions, customs and traditions of those regions. Turkish women and girls felt the need to pee on their dowry, clothes and the things they would use, following their traditions, with a delicate taste in color, motif and technique.
They combined to create works of art. They used nature and its phases for the subject and color.
The main reason for the development and spread of Turkish embroidery and giving importance to these processes was born from the custom and pleasure of gifting embroidered items to the most valuable places.
When considered within the framework of history, colors and motifs are also the spoken language of Turkish women who do not speak much as their customs.
The fact that Turkish women, who have a narrow circle, draw as if they came from their hearts, and embroider works of art with fascinating colors, gold and silver glitters are met with astonishment and admiration in Europe.
The heyday of Turkish embroidery, XVII. and XVIII. coincides with centuries. In this era, embroideries were embroidered with silks and gold and silver glitter on precious fabrics.
These embroideries, which are difficult due to the change in living conditions today, have become less embroidered and lost their old fine embroidery form. Currently, old embroidery is modernized without spoiling its color and pattern character, creating beautiful and tasteful embroidery.
Traditional crafts
Handcrafts have emerged depending on the natural conditions since the existence of human beings. It gave its first examples in order to meet the needs of people, to cover and protect. Afterwards, the handicrafts, which developed and changed according to the environmental conditions, showed the feelings, artistic tastes and cultural characteristics of the society in which they emerged. It has become "traditional" by becoming reflective.
Traditional Turkish Handicrafts has created a rich mosaic by combining the cultural heritage of various civilizations from Anatolia's thousands of years of history with their own values. carpet making, kilim making, cicim zili, sumac, fabric weaving, blacksmithing, tile making, ceramic-pottery making, embroidery, needlework making, leather work, musical instruments making, stonework, copper making, basket making, saddle making, metalworking, felt making, knitting. , wood and woodworking, coaching, etc. can be sorted.
The raw materials of our traditional handicrafts are provided from wool, mohair, cotton, bristle and silk. All kinds of fabrics, knitting, upholstery, carpets, rugs, bells, cicim, felt, columns, etc. obtained by spinning or other ways to form a whole or by attaching the fibers to each other with different methods. It is a handicraft that has been and continues to be a source of livelihood in many regions since then.
Needlework, which is one of the elegant examples of our handicrafts; It is also used as a means of communication with the meanings they carry other than to adorn and adorn. Today, the laces made with tools such as crochet, needle, shuttle, hairpin / hairpin are designed either as a border or as a motif, and are given different names according to the tool used and their techniques. .These; Needle, crochet hook, shuttle, hairpin / wire rod, cocoon, wool, candle, bead and fabric scraps can be listed as Kastamonu, Konya, Elazig, Bursa, Bitlis, Gaziantep, Izmir, Ankara, Bolu, Kahramanmaraş, Aydın, Icel, Tokat, Kütahya. It is made more intensively in our cities such as, but it loses its former importance and tries to preserve its existence in dowry chests.
In addition to our lace used with traditional clothes, jewelry is one of the remarkable accessories. All civilizations that lived in Anatolia produced works of artistic quality by processing precious and semi-precious stones with metal or separately. The most important of the different styles that came with the Seljuks was the Turkmen jewelry. During the Ottoman Empire, jewelery gained importance in parallel with the development of the empire.
In the Bronze Age in Anatolia, metals such as copper, gold, and silver were also processed by forging and casting techniques in the periods after copper and tin were added to bronze. Techniques such as inlaying, molding, nibbling, openwork cutting are used.
Handicrafts made with metals such as brass, gold and silver as well as copper are tried to be kept alive with superior craftsmanship and various designs. Today, copper, which is the most widely used metal processing, is carried out extensively by making kitchenware by tinning.
The architecture arising from the need for shelter has been shaped and diversified according to the geographical conditions of the regions. Woodwork, which developed accordingly, developed in Anatolia during the Seljuk period and reached a unique quality. The wooden works of the Seljuk and Principalities period were mostly architectural elements such as mihrabs, mosque doors, cabinet doors and included superior workmanship. , daily use items such as writing sets, drawers, chests, spoons, thrones, boats, lecterns, Quran storage, and windows, cabinets It has been applied in architectural works such as its cover, beam, console, ceiling, mihrab, pulpit, sarcophagus.
The material used in woodworking is mostly walnut, apple, pear, cedar, ebony and rosewood. Wooden items processed with techniques such as inlay, painting, kundekariz, relief-carving, cage, veneer, burning are still used today. These techniques are used in Zonguldak, In cities such as Bitlis, Gaziantep, Bursa, Istanbul-Beykoz, Ordu, the use of walking sticks and staffs, which still gain value according to their raw materials, continued for centuries and became widespread in the 19th century.
Handles of walking sticks and staffs; materials such as silver, gold, bone, mother-of-pearl, and the body parts are made of rose, cherry, ebony, cranberry, bamboo, reed, etc. It is made of trees. The making of musical instruments has been going on since ancient times. These instruments include trees, plants and animals; It is made by using skin, intestines, hair, bones and horns. They are grouped as stringed, stringed, woodwind and percussion instruments.
Another art branch that develops depending on architecture is the art of tiles. He entered Anatolia with the Seljuks. Seljuk artists, who do not hesitate to use figurative works of art, were especially successful in animal depictions.14. The art of ceramics, which started in Iznik in the 15th century, in Kütahya in the 15th century, and in Çanakkale in the 17th century, brought new interpretations to the Ottoman period ceramic and tile art with its unique color, pattern and form features in these regions. Between the 14th and 19th centuries, Turkish tile and ceramic art gained worldwide fame with its exceptionally creative craftsmanship.
The most outstanding examples of glasswork obtained from Anatolian civilizations shed light on the historical development of "glass" today. Stained glass in various models and forms was developed during the Seljuk period. With the conquest of Istanbul during the Ottoman Empire, this city became the center of glassmaking. Çeşm-i Bülbül , Beykoz work are some of the techniques that have survived from this period.
The production of glass as eye beads for the first time in Anatolia was carried out by the craftsmen in the village of İzmir-Görece. It is possible to see glass beads, which are based on the evil eye belief, in all parts of Anatolia. It is believed that the attention of the gaze directed to the living or object through the evil eye will be directed to another object.
In traditional architecture, stonework has an important place in exterior and interior decorations. The most common use of stonework, apart from architecture, is tombstones. Techniques such as carving, relief, scraping (profito) are applied. The ornamental elements used are floral, geometric motifs, writings and figures. Animal figures are scarce. Human figures are found in the works of the Seljuk Period.
Basketry, which has not lost its function today, is still as learned from the ancestors; It is made by knitting from sedge, willow and hazelnut branches. Goods, food, etc. Apart from the purpose of transportation, it has also been used in interior decoration. Today, their production is almost lost due to changing living conditions and value judgments, especially industrialization.
Compilation studies are carried out with handicraft masters in field surveys carried out in provinces determined by the General Directorate every year, and if necessary, slides are tried to be determined with video footage. This information is recorded in the Archive of the General Directorate and presented to the benefit of scientists, experts and students working on this subject.
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The materials in the General Directorate's collection are promoted by opening exhibitions at home and abroad. Again, promotion is made with the "Local Handicrafts Exhibitions" opened with the support of the General Directorate, and efforts are made to provide market opportunities for the craftsmen. It is tried to be supported and continued with its forms.
The papers presented in the Material Culture Section of the "International Folk Culture Congress" held every five years by our General Directorate, and presented at scientific meetings jointly organized with various universities, are converted into publications. In addition, the works on handicrafts are published and converted into publications.
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